Broken Top Loop Day 3

Jul 16

South Sister Summit to Tam McArthur Trailhead

I awoke to the first rays of dawn painting the sky in deep purples and fiery oranges. Voices echoed in the distance from early risers who had climbed up South Sister to catch the sunrise.

Overnight, I had the summit to myself, but by 5:30 a.m., a dozen people had gathered to witness the spectacle. It was worth it. It always is.

I enjoyed the luxury of a leisurely morning—making breakfast, savoring a cup of coffee, and slowly breaking down my tent. By 7:00 a.m., I began my descent, but not before one final stop at the true summit for a last, lingering view.

On my way down, I crossed paths with two Mazamas climbers who had just reached the summit. We exchanged stories about our separate adventures before I continued my journey.

The day ahead would be long—about 16 miles with over 5,000 feet of elevation loss and nearly 2,000 feet of gain as I made my way around Broken Top. Along the way, I stopped to admire a lone wildflower growing out of the summit's bare rock, a small reminder that "courage is found in unlikely places," as J.R.R. Tolkien once wrote.

I had a long day ahead—about 16 miles with over 5,000 feet of elevation loss and nearly 2,000 feet of gain as I made my way around Broken Top back to Tam McArthur Trailhead.

I briefly stopped to admire one of the many wildflowers that seemed to be growing out of bare rock.

“Courage is found in unlikely places.” - JRR Tolkien

Once I descended the first 1,400 feet from the summit crater, I found myself back at Lewis Tarn. I paused to refill my water and take in the view. Below me, a conga line of climbers made their way up the mountain, a sharp contrast to the recent solitude I enjoyed.

From there, I ventured into unfamiliar territory, following the Green Lakes route down the east face of South Sister. This trail led me back to Green Lakes, where I had camped just two nights before.

The area was now bustling with life—backpackers, day hikers, pets, and wildlife all enjoying the sunny weather. I skirted around Green Lakes, grateful for the tree cover and the cool breeze that kept the morning temperatures in check.

Soon, the trees thinned out, and the trail became more arid, offering sweeping views of the surrounding mountains. I looked back at South Sister, where I had stood just hours earlier.

After hiking for about seven miles over five hours, I took a detour to Golden Lake for a lunch break.

The extra half-mile was worth it. Golden Lake was a gem—lush green fields surrounded a still, pristine lake with open views of the nearby volcanoes. It’s a place I’ll return to someday.

After a brief rest, I returned to the main trail, knowing I still had a long way to go. The glimpses of beauty along the way kept me energized.

The trail offered constant reminders of the wonders that nature has to offer.

Just a mile or two after the Golden Lake junction, I crossed the open fields of Park Meadow along with open views of Broken Top in the distance.

As the day wore on, the heat intensified. My legs and feet grew tired, and I reminded myself to stay hydrated as I passed through the long stretches of burned trees on the North side of Broken Top.

With a few hours still ahead of me, my pace became meditative—a trance that allowed me to push through the physical discomfort. I found solace in the sights that the Broken Top Loop offered.

Each creek I crossed was an oasis, teeming with life and wildflowers, and a chance to refill my water with cool, refreshing mountain streams.

As it often does, the last mile felt like the longest. Each junction seemed like a cruel joke, teasing me with the promise of the trail’s end, only to reveal more distance to cover. I kept my pace steady, knowing that the journey would soon come to a close.

Finally, I caught a last glimpse of the mountains before the sight of cars in the forest road signaled the end of my trek.

I reached the Tam McArthur Trailhead, the adventure complete. A photo-op of NEOWISE, friendly faces, and a summit.

The Broken Top Loop was complete.