Mount Shuksan Day 1

Chain Lakes Trailhead to Winnie’s Slide

Long approach, glacier travel, high angle snow, alpine rock, route finding, grand vistas and heart pounding exposure. Mount Shuksan ticks all of the boxes for an aspiring, intermediate level mountaineer's thirst for adventure.

Recognized as the most photographed peak in North America, as seen from Picture Lake near Mount Baker. This mountain has no shortage of obstacles and rewards, and for this reason, it is also listed in Fred Beckey’s 100 classic climbs in North America.

Four years ago I was struck by its beauty when I first laid my eyes upon it. As a passing thought, I mentioned how it would be nice to climb it someday — without much thought to the skills required for something like this.

Fast forward to 2020, I felt that I was finally mentally and physically ready to apply for this climb. I was beyond excited when I heard the news of being accepted to be a part of a Mazamas climb team! Our team of 8 climbers was made up of some amazing folks whom I had shared previous climbs, adventures, classes, and experiences over the last five years of climbing with the Mazamas. Very strong climbers, men and women with diverse backgrounds and skill sets.

I couldn’t wait for the climb, and I had no idea what I was in for.

With COVID restrictions, in place, the Mazamas have taken a number of precautions and safety measures for group climbs. These include driving separately, minimizing shared gear, socially distancing ourselves, and wearing masks when in close proximity.

I drove to Bellingham the night before so that I would be closer to the start of the climb, in hopes of a good night's rest, and shorter drive the following day. The reality is that I spent most of the night going over my gear and anxiously thinking about the climb.

The following morning we all met up at the Glacier Public Service Ranger Station, we made our way towards Lake Ann Trailhead to start our hike. The low clouds covered our view as the line of cars made the way up the road. An air of mist and drizzle swirled with the wind, casting subtle concerns into what our weekend might look like. Before long, we reached our first obstacle — the final stretch of the road to Lake Ann Trailhead was closed. Just like that, a bonus mile was added to our day’s objective.

We got out of the cars and strapped our boots, split the team gear, and made tried to remain dry as best as we could as we geared ourselves up. A brief huddle to discuss our flight plan, responsibilities, double check gear, and off we went.

Once we reached the Lake Ann trailhead, we began our descent. The route to Mount Shuksan is full of literal ups and downs, and actual trail starts off by descending some 800ft. of elevation. Our climb assistant ensured we maintained a good pace, and that we stopped to admire, smell, and photograph the blooming flowers covered by the morning dew.

After 3 and half hours of hiking, we reached Lake Ann. We stopped here for a lunch break, surrounded by mysterious rock formations. The slow winds played games with the cloud cover, teasing us of the views that might have been. The air felt heavier, knowing all the challenging parts of the climb still lie ahead. After a good 30 minute lunch break, we pressed on.

We had barely scratched the surface of the obstacles for the day. I was still blissfully ignorant of the challenges that lay ahead. Making our way up towards Fisher Chimneys, the route became a bit more rugged and steeper. Full attention was given with each step.

After 6 and half hours hiking, we approached the start of Fisher Chimneys proper, the namesake of the route we were attempting. This was the final stretch that would lead us to our campsite, and also the most technical section of our route so far. As the day continued, we began paying notice of the time and diminishing sunlight. Although care was needed with each step, we were also mindful of the need to press on. We only had about 3 more hours of sunlight ahead of us.

For skilled rock climbers, this is one of the most fun parts of the climb. Exposed, good granite, with dynamic moves. For lowly skilled rock climbers with a lowkey feat of heights like myself, it was a terrifying challenge. There was only one way up the mountain, and I followed the lead of climbers ahead of me, one step at a time. Full attention. Full slow breaths.

For the first time in my climbing repertoire, I experienced the magic of a climbing team coming together in concert towards an objective. Supportive words, good energy, and switching leads for the next challenge ahead. The whole team was greater than the sum of our parts.

As we topped out above Fisher Chimneys, a sense of relief for having reached ground without the constant fear of falling. Approaching mental exhaustion with an overload of adrenaline, we were urged to continue on towards our campsite for the night.

It was now 8:30pm and the sun would quickly set on the horizon. We still had around 50 minutes left ahead of us on the steep snow section of Winnie’s Slide. Crampons and two ice axes for this portion of the hike, pushing through physical and mental exhaustion.

After topping out and being within sight of our final destination for the night, we turned around to experience one of the most majestic and rewarding sunsets I’ve had the pleasure to witness. These moments remind me why I long for these shared experiences.

The terrifying bits are replaced by memories of camaraderie, the bliss of overcoming your fears, and joy of experiencing the full range of emotions that only the outdoors can provide.

We arrived at our campsite at 9:15pm, dug snow and battled winds to set up our campsite, filled up water bladders, and made dinner in the dark. We soon made our way into our tents for a hopeful night’s rest before the next day’s objective at the summit of Mount Shuksan.

Chain Lakes Trailhead to Winnie’s Slide

Broken Top Loop Day 3