Mount Shuksan Day 2
Winnie’s Slide to Mount Shuksan Summit
Early Start and Ascent
Day 2 on Mount Shuksan began with an early morning rise and a steep ascent right out of our campsite. The crisp morning air invigorated us, and the quiet stillness of the mountains was only broken by the crunch of crampons on snow as we made our way upwards. Our goal for the day was ambitious: traversing the upper Curtis Glacier, ascending Hell’s Highway, and ultimately reaching the summit block of Shuksan.
Traversing the Upper Curtis Glacier
The traverse across the Upper Curtis Glacier was both challenging and surreal. We found ourselves enveloped in a whiteout. Sometimes I find the whiteout to be helpful to focus on the task at hand. The lack of visibility heightened our awareness. The team moved steadily, supporting each other as we moved along on the rope team.
Hell’s Highway: A Steep Climb in the Clouds
Reaching Hell’s Highway marked the next major phase of our climb. This steep snowfield, known for its challenging incline, required full concentration. The snow was soft which made for a much safer ascent, and the whiteout kept me from seeing the big dropoff below us.
After climbing up Hell's Highway with the ice axe and second tool, we continued on and joined the Sulfide Glacier route. The whiteout conditions persisted, transforming climb into a meditative trance. One. Step. At. A. Time, and nothing else.
The summit block loomed in the distance like an oasis, a faint shadow against the uniform whiteness surrounding us. An hour of steady climbing as a rope team brought us to the base of the pyramid block, where we paused to catch our breath and prepare for the next challenge.
The Summit Block
At the base of the pyramid block, we stashed our crampons and trekking poles—it was no longer needed for the upcoming rock scramble. The pyramid block is known for its technical rock sections, and while some team members navigated the scramble with ease, I found myself grappling with discomfort and fear. The support of moving as a team helped me push through the moments of paralysis. Each handhold and foothold was a small victory, moving me closer to the summit.
“The final climb to the summit required the most constant and careful work, for often it seemed impossible to find a hand-hold or a place to plant one’s foot, and the faces of the cliffs dropped sheer to the glaciers below. The urge was ever upward, and every faculty was employed in negotiating that last stiff scramble.”
Reaching the Summit: A Whiteout Experience
Finally, we reached the summit block of Mount Shuksan, but the view was far from what we had imagined. The perfect whiteout conditions allowed us to see only about 20 feet ahead—an ethereal and humbling experience.
The sense of accomplishment was palpable, even if the surrounding landscape remained hidden in the clouds.
The Descent: Rappelling and Navigation
Our descent began with a series of rappels down the pyramid block, leading us back to the Sulfide Glacier route. The team worked beautifully as a unit in the rappel section.
Once we were back in the snow as a rope team, we relied heavily on our GPS tracks to guide us, carefully retracing our steps to avoid the hidden crevasses that surrounded us beyond our original path.
A Clearing in the Alpine
As we neared our campsite, the clouds began to lift, revealing an awe-inspiring alpine scene. The sudden clearing was like a gift from the mountain, offering us a breathtaking view of our camp nestled in the distance, surrounded by rugged peaks and snowfields. The beauty of the moment was overwhelming and the whole team rejoiced as we continued our steps down to camp. We descended the final stretch with a renewed sense of energy, grateful for the clarity and the unforgettable experience.
Returning to our campsite, we were greeted by the familiar sight of our tents and the promise of rest. As we settled in for the night, the memories of the climb—played over in my mind, reminding me we seek out these adventures in the wild places of the world.
Distance: 6.8 miles
Duration: 11 hours 4 minutes
Elevation Gain — Loss: ▲ 2,287 ft — 2,451 ft ▼
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