Mount Shuksan Day 1
Chain Lakes Trailhead to Winnie’s Slide
Introduction and Approach
The climb to Mount Shuksan offers everything an aspiring mountaineer dreams of: a long approach, glacier travel, high-angle snow, alpine rock, route finding, grand vistas, and heart-pounding exposure. This iconic peak, located in the North Cascades near Mount Baker, is a must for intermediate-level climbers seeking adventure.
Mount Shuksan is recognized as the most photographed peak in North America, especially when viewed from Picture Lake with the backdrop of Mount Baker. Its challenging terrain and breathtaking views have earned it a place in Fred Beckey’s 100 classic climbs in North America.
I first glimpsed this stunning mountain four years ago, and its beauty left a lasting impression. I casually mentioned the idea of climbing it one day, unaware of the skills required for such an endeavor. Fast forward to 2020, I finally felt ready—both mentally and physically—to tackle this climb. I was thrilled when accepted to join a Mazamas climb team. Our group of eight climbers included experienced individuals I had shared adventures with over the years.
The Journey Begins
With COVID-19 restrictions in place, the Mazamas implemented safety measures such as driving separately, minimizing shared gear, and maintaining social distancing. I drove to Bellingham the night before the climb, hoping for a good night’s rest and a shorter drive the next day. Instead, I spent the night anxiously reviewing my gear and contemplating the climb ahead.
The following morning, our team met at the Glacier Public Service Ranger Station before heading to Lake Ann Trailhead. Low clouds and mist accompanied us, adding a sense of uncertainty about the weather. Upon reaching the trailhead, we discovered the final stretch of the road was closed, adding an mile to the journey ahead.
We geared up, split team gear, and set off, determined to stay as dry as possible. Our climb assistant ensured we maintained a steady pace, taking time to appreciate the blooming wildflowers along the trail.
Lake Ann and Beyond
Once we reached the Lake Ann Trailhead, we began our descent. The route to Mount Shuksan is full of literal ups and downs, and the actual trail starts by descending some 800 feet of elevation. Our climb assistant ensured we maintained a good pace, encouraging us to stop and admire, smell, and photograph the blooming wildflowers covered in morning dew.
After three and a half hours of hiking, we reached Lake Ann, where we took a lunch break surrounded by mysterious rock formations. The cloud cover teased us with glimpses of the views we hoped to see. The air felt heavy, knowing the toughest parts of the climb still lay ahead.
We had barely scratched the surface of the obstacles for the day. I was still blissfully ignorant of the challenges that lay ahead. Making our way up towards Fisher Chimneys, the route became a bit more rugged and steeper. Full attention was given with each step.
After six and a half hours of hiking, we approached the start of Fisher Chimneys proper, the namesake of the route we were attempting. This was the final stretch that would lead us to our campsite and also the most technical section of our route so far. As the day continued, we began noticing the time and diminishing sunlight. Although care was needed with each step, we were also mindful of the need to press on. We only had about three more hours of sunlight ahead of us.
For skilled rock climbers, this is one of the most fun parts of the climb. Exposed, solid granite with dynamic moves. For less experienced rock climbers with a low-key fear of heights like myself, it was a terrifying challenge. There was only one way up the mountain, and I followed the lead of climbers ahead of me, one step at a time. Full attention. Full slow breaths.
For the first time in my climbing repertoire, I experienced the magic of a climbing team coming together in concert towards an objective. Supportive words, good energy, and switching leads for the next challenge ahead. The whole team was greater than the sum of our parts.
As we topped out above Fisher Chimneys, there was a sense of relief for having reached ground without the constant fear of falling. Approaching mental exhaustion with an overload of adrenaline, we were urged to continue on towards our campsite for the night.
Winnie’s Slide and Campsite
It was now 8:30 pm, and the sun would soon set on the horizon. We still had around 50 minutes left ahead of us on the steep snow section of Winnie’s Slide. Crampons and two ice axes were essential for this portion of the hike, as we pushed through physical and mental exhaustion.
After topping out and being within sight of our final destination for the night, we turned around to experience one of the most majestic and rewarding sunsets I’ve had the pleasure to witness. These moments remind me why I long for these shared experiences.
The terrifying bits are replaced by memories of camaraderie, the bliss of overcoming your fears, and the joy of experiencing the full range of emotions that only the outdoors can provide.
We arrived at our campsite at 9:15 pm, dug snow, and battled winds to set up our campsite, filled up water bladders, and made dinner in the dark. We soon made our way into our tents for a hopeful night’s rest before the next day’s objective at the summit of Mount Shuksan.
Distance: 9.6 miles
Duration: 9 hours 59 minutes
Elevation Gain — Loss: ▲ 3,642 ft — 1,114 ft ▼